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scratches and TR-301 Sealer Glaze closes gelcoat pores and
seals. After using the TR-301 Sealer Glaze a good marine UV
protecting wax must be applied to insure the longevity of
the shine.
Depending on how faded the gelcoat is will determine
what compound you can start with.
“If you are going to compound and wax your boat you
need the right materials and equipment”
Here’s what you need; a good particle mast; compounds
dry out your sinus and skin, eye protection and light weight
gloves, terry cloth rags, a variable speed buffer, not an
orbital buffer! Orbital buffer is good for polishing but not
for compounding because you won’t get the heat from
it necessary to get a shine. Be sure to get a buffing pad;
different from polishing pads. Use a good quality wool pad,
I use a 3M doubled sided pad. The pads are pricey, but you
get what you pay for.
“As a general rule; buffing without a little heat you’re
not going to get the shine”
Start with using TR-311, course compound. Apply to the
boat using a terry rag. Put enough on to keep it moist; too
much will sling all over and make a mess. All buffers spin
clockwise so put compound on the boat and work right
to left in small areas so the compound stays moist and it
will avoid loading up your buffing pad. Be careful buffing
around registration numbers, vinyl graphics and stripping
tapes!
After using TR-311 wipe the residue off the boat. Clean
the pad with a tool called a spur. You can use the side of
a screw driver but it tends to pull the pad apart. Repeat
the process using the TR-308 to get rid of swirl marks and
minor scratches caused by the coarse compound. Again
wipe off the residue and clean the pad. Next apply the TR-
301 Sealer Glaze. It can be applied and removed by hand
but for best results use the buffer. Wipe the boat down
one last time and apply a good marine UV protecting wax.
Wax is essential because the Sealer Glaze does not have UV
protecting properties.
If the gelcoat has become badly chalked and it comes off
onto your hands and clothes when you rub against it wet
sanding and compounding will be required to bring the shine
back.
Here is the basic wet sanding process;
I test spot an area starting with a professional grade
gelcoat compound. If that does not remove the fade
then I will wet sand using a sanding block starting with
1000 gt. During the process the sandpaper is completely
saturated with water. If fade is still present after testing
with 1000 gt., I will then use 600 gt wet sandpaper. I
will not use any coarser paper. I work 1 sq. ft at a time
all the way around the boat being very consistent on
how much sanding is done. The gelcoat must be sanded
evenly otherwise the boat will look like a leopard. If 600
gt is removing the fade, 1000 gt is used next. Depending on
finish desired 1500 and 2000 gt is used. Final applications
are professional grades of compound mentioned above,
sealer glaze and UV protecting wax. Once the gelcoat is
refurbished back to a nice shine it is very important to keep
the boat waxed!
“Question for you Dr Gel, I pulled my boat out to get it ready
for the season. It has a scum line on it that I cannot get rid of.
What do you recommend?” Rick M., Catskill,NY
In your case there is a remedy in a bottle.
My first choice of cleaning product is called FSR - Fiberglass
Stain Remover (FSR) made by Davis. It is a unique stain
absorbing gel that serves a variety of purposes. It is ideal for
removing oil, rust, exhaust, waterline and transom stains. This
product also works great on shower stalls and furniture made
of fiberglass.
Its non-abrasive quality means that it is safe to use on white
painted surfaces as well as on gel-coat. Just don’t forget to
test a small area to be sure FSR will not damage the finish.
This product requires no sanding or compounding, and can
simply be applied with a brush, sponge or cloth. Wait a few
minutes and then wipe or rinse off.
Another hull cleaner is On-Off, an acid cleaner that will
strip everything off your boat. It is available at many marine
supply stores. It comes in two different forms liquid and a gel.
I suggest using the more user friendly gel. The liquid atomizes
in the air and can easily get on your skin. If you elect to use
the liquid keep the wind at your back, use protective gloves
and eye protection! Don’t get it on anything but your boat.
It is an acid, remember, and will discolor trailers, especially
galvanized. After using it according to the directions be sure
to rinse the areas thoroughly. Apply sealer glaze and a good
coat of wax. Wax is essential to seal the gel coat pores!
“What is the best UV protecting wax to use?” Steve M.
Saratoga Lake, NY
There are many great marine wax products available. Ask ten
people what they like and you will probably get ten different
answers.
I have used many types of boat waxes through the years and
the one we feel is superior and use exclusively is Collinite No.
845 Insulator Wax.
Whatever you choose to use just be sure the wax is
formulated for marine use!
We all need reminders!
Hope this article was helpful getting the
new season off to a great start!
Let’s go boating!