

February - March 2017
February - March 2017
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it at all. I added a full shot glass of Braggs Apple Cider Vinegar and
didn’t taste even a hint of it in the resulting broth. Now, thanks to
Allison, I will never make bone broth without it.
This column was a genuine trip. From its inception as an article
it has taken turns and twists and given us gifts along the way.
Something that started out as a simple stock, for winter stocking,
ended up being not only a game changer; it’s been a life changer.
Hell, this time last year it was even a lifesaver. We wrote about the
benefits of bone broth this time last year because of our dear, John.
It’s amazing how fast bone broth has caught on like a craze and
that there is now a whole lot more to say. First I want to call bull$#!t
on a couple of things. I was in the food store last week and saw
a new book AND a food product based on the medicinal theories
behind using bone broth as a comforting cure. They used things
like cornstarch, fillers, preservatives, artificial color and ingredients
I could not pronounce. The book spoke nothing of the origin of
the bones. That is like giving an idiot half of an education. The
point is NATURAL, natural bones from natural animals. Organic is
becoming an almost controversial term, unfortunately making it
open for personal interpretation. Advertising and marketing can
make the consumer think they are buying something “healthy”
which in real life amounts to nothing more than water salt and
caramel coloring. If you think you are going into the store, buying
a can of average broth off the shelves for medicinal purposes, you
are mistaken. Unfortunately. I wish it were not that way but there
is very little if any nutrition or protein in that can. Now, if the can
is labeled organic or all natural and has minimal ingredients, give
it a whirl. I like Muir Glenn and Pacific. But if you are going for a
classic red and white can of beef broth, put it back on the shelves,
you’re better off buying orange juice. The bones and the marrow
of the animal have to be clean because that is the location of its
essential minerals. If the animal was raised in poor conditions, fed
hormone laden feed and endured antibiotics and chemicals, that
all resonates in their bones. And THAT right there is your argument
for all natural food.
John (our Publisher) two years ago, is not the only one who got
sick. This time last year we almost lost another one of our Boating
on the Hudson own. She was so ill and diminishing before our
eyes, while suffering. It was too much to watch. I do not know
how she endured. I developed a lot of opinions about our medical
industry during that time. I was watching my dearest friend, waste
away, while doctors watched with no solutions but a lot of offers
of morphine. Which, by the way has no connection to stomach
ailments. Once I brought her home from the hospital, I got bossy
(imagine that!) and went about “fixing” her system, our selves.
From where I stood, the doctors were about to kill her anyway so
what worse could I do?? To add another obstacle, there was now
FODMAP. Look it up, it will make your head spin. It’s a no’s and
yes list of foods she can and cannot have. Onions, garlic, celery…
regular aromatics used in say, soup.… not on the yes list. I needed
a way to get liquid protein in her. I pulled out my biggest pot,
raided the deepest reserves from my freezer and made beef bone
broth out of nothing but beef bones, water and salt. Of course I
used Ali’s trick with the cider vinegar. The doctors and nutritionists
told us there was no protein in beef broth, they were wrong. When
doctors and nutritionists speak about food, they are talking about
the lowest grade of food. What is available on the most average
market shelf. When you are looking for something to heal you from
the inside out, you need to look a little closer to home I guess. I
know where my beef bones come from, do you? Try making this
recipe at home from scratch and you will understand why it’s worth
the trouble to seek out clean all natural beef. The difference it made
was instant and amazing. She thrived. It was delicious. And very
soon she went from weak to strong. That was the beef broth.
Making beef broth has always been an all day affair for me. Unlike
chicken, beef takes a little longer to penetrate and release all of its
yummy goodness. When I first learned this recipe almost thirty
years ago, it was all thrown in raw and set on the stove for 8 hours.
I thought it laborsome and did not endure it often. I wonder what
teenage me would have thought about this current execution?
Probably think I was jack-nuts. Back then I had no idea how much
I would care. But I do care now; very, very much. I care about the
quality of my food, our food. I care about chemicals, hormones,
pesticides and the insertion they have had into our population. I
get preachy when it comes to the quality standards that are allowed
in food. I have a food license, it was incredibly difficult to get; it took
years and a small fortune (not to mention the multiple gray hairs).
I twist myself into a pretzel insuring that my ingredients are pure
and natural and when I see the long list of artificial ingredients on
something as simple as a can of clear beef broth, my head spins. So,
I make my own. From organic, local beef, I got converted through
education and flavor.
The purpose inmy house, for stock, broth or soup, is often nursing.
If I feel poorly I reach into my freezer and pull out a small container
of bone broth, it’s instinct. Maybe being Jewish, I have an affinity
for chicken soup as a cure for the common cold (or for the common
life). However it is as a Mother that I have learned the value of a
protein packed clear liquid when my children or Husband or
any member of my village is sick. The minerals in the bones, the
collagen from the marrow, the vitamins from the meat, all soothe
our tummies, throats and tame our illnesses when the cold winter
weather roars. Broth is medicinal; at least I believe it to be. So when
I am cooking up a large batch to store up for the winter I reach for
the finest of ingredients.
Shunpike Dairy is my current beef knuckle and marrowbone
dealer. Liz not only has the best raw milk in the world, but also has
the best tasting beef (as well as many other products ranging from
eggs to pork and chicken). Shunpike Dairy’s got the cleanest beef
product I have ever worked with. Vicky and I met Liz and started
drinking her milk, years ago. Her interests and her farm have grown
and when we say“Liz meat”the kids roar with approval. They know
a good meal is coming. We started with cross shank bones and
slowly worked our way through neck bones, short ribs to tailbones
and every bone in between. When you are using good quality
beef, all the bones are good bones. Marrow bones are a particular
favorite of mine. They are sexy and remind me of my youth. Liz,
and her delights are available at Shunpike Dairy, Address: 1348
Shunpike, Millbrook, NY 12545
Phone (845) 702-6224
WWW.Shunpike.comFirst, oil ‘em up good, salt ‘em generously and roast ‘em on high
in the oven. I use the largest roasting pan I can find, to get them
all done at once. There will be a good deal of liquid at the bottom
of the pan after the roasting, you are going to want that liquid to
go into your broth so don’t disregard or discard it. Second, when
preparing the vegetables, peel them, but leave them whole. Beef
takes time on the stove and you want the veggies to be able to hold
up to the long term cooking. Also, I like a clear broth. Cutting up
the vegetables and futzing with the soup once it’s on the stove will
result in cloudy, particle-filled broth. Which is just as tasty but has
limitations as an ingredient. Say, as in, wanting to make French
Onion Soup. (The recipe is on YouTube don’t worry.)
Third, find your biggest pot. Fourth, cover with a lot of water
and bring to a rolling boil. Fifth, after boiling for thirty to forty-
five minutes, reduce to a simmer for a minimum of six hours.
So, you want beef and bones that are the highest quality. That
means all natural or organic. It makes sense to invest in bones
that come from high quality meat. It’s going in your mouth!
Being that we are using the bones and not cuts of sirloin, the
cost should not be high and past frozen bones will work just as
well as fresh. Most butchers are happy to sell their soup bones
off. I keep several different cuts in my freezer. As for seasonings,
I like bay leaf, whole black peppercorn, dried thyme twigs, loose
thyme leaves, shallots and garlic. All are great flavorings for the
beef; they seem to marry up nicely.
Cover the bones and veggies with lots and lots of water. To
begin with I fill the pot up almost to the top. Bring the whole pot
to a rolling boil and then reduce the heat to a simmer. This would
be the time to remove what I refer to as the SCUZ. I am sure, in a
fancy cooking school somewhere, there is a proper name for the
white, to gray to brown foam that rises to the top of the pot as
the water boils. Pay attention to the color of the scuz. First it will
be white frothy and bubbly, then as the beef cooks and releases
small particles that rise to the top and will eventually become
brown. There are those, such as myself, that are particular about
clear broth, so scuz is the enemy, I like to remove it with a flat
spoon and keep a glass measuring cup on the side to spoon it
into. Along with scuz, fat rises to the top and this process will
help remove the fat as well. I like to separate and keep the fat for
things like making popovers and sautéing. People also remove
the scuz because it is ugly and therefore unappetizing. Vicky
refused to put the cooking pot photo in our collage last year due
to it’s, as she put it, “unappetizing nature and general ugliness”.
You’ll get a glimpse of what I’m talking about while watching our
instructional video and it made it into the collage this time!
Once the simmering has started, set your timer for six hours
if you plan to make beef soup or would like to use any of the
beautifully stewed meat. Otherwise, DO NOT FUTZ WITH IT, DO
NOT STIR OR POKE AT THE POT! After six hours, the meat tends to
begin to dry out, loosing some of its unctuous succulence. It still
has lots of value in the pot as flavor for the broth but for eating,
six hours is usually my limit. Since I like to keep my cauldron
boiling overnight, I take the six hour mark as my opportunity
to pick through the pot a little. Remove the carrots, any desired
meat to reserve and remove any marrow from inside the bones
(which also exposes the center of the bones to the stock). I love
bone marrow on toast. If you have small soup containers, place
the carrots and the pieces of beef into each container, cover
with broth and you can freeze them for months. Yay, beef soup!
After thoroughly picking through, place any and all remaining
bones, fat, even gristle back into the stockpot. They have more
to give to the flavor of the liquid. By the way, this would be the
only acceptable time you would be messing around with the
contents. Otherwise, leave the pot still and let the soup simmer
gently. If I didn’t make my point before, this will prevent cloudy
broth. Check on the broth every few hours.
Refill the pot with more water if you see the liquid levels
getting too low. Once the broth has finished cooking, separate
the liquids from the solids and refrigerate the liquid overnight
if possible to remove the layer of beef fat. This fat is perfect for
sautéing onions, roasting potatoes and will hold up for a while if
kept in the back of your refrigerator.
There is a simple instructional video that we made to walk you
through the recipe. It is as simple as it is delicious. Just use your
smartphone to scan the code and the video will pop right up! If
you do not have a smartphone you can always look for the video
on our website
Boatingonthehudson.com
or visit our channel on
YouTube;
search for Ivey Levy.
Special thanks to Liz Baldwin and Shunpike Dairy,
1348 Shunpike, Millbrook, NY 12545
Phone845-702-6224 • Shunpike.com
Enjoy!
The BONE BROTH SOUP that Ivey is describing
to you here, as well as Ivey and Vicky played a
HUGE part in my recovering from intestinal
surgery, done in July of 2015. I am not going to
go into all the details here, but as of this writing,
and only four days after my second surgery, Ivey’s
Bone Broth, was what brought me back from the
brink.....and I am not kidding.
As soon as you drink half a cup you can feel it
going through your body. Where as any other food
just sits in your stomach, this recipe flows through
you healing you!
Stop smoking, (i never did), drink less or no
alcohol, and pay attention to what you eat.
At age 80 I will be jet sking, boating, flying, an
genrally have a good time, especially putting this
BoatingontheHudson magazine together. Thanks
to Ivey an Vicky and all the help they gave me over
the past 5 months.
John H. Vargo, Publisher